As we left the Sadhu, we glided down the slopes enjoying the speed but for Dinakar he had to give himself some push whenever the cycle stopped. Turns out he parked the cycle in good condition at an ashram before going to Satopant and when he returned someone had broken a connecting part between the gear and frame. We planned to stay at the Gurudwara at Govind Ghat which we reached around 4 in the evening. Turns out Dinakar smoked too so while Ramesh rested we went out to have a smoke. Later that evening a Sadhu came and took a bed next to ours and joined in the conversation. That's when I heard the name Khagbasundi for the first time, Dinakar spoke about it before saying it was one of the toughest treks, both me and Ramesh were interested the moment he said it was one of the toughest treks. Ramesh watched a video and looked confident enough to do it. We had no clue about the distance or how many days we had to plan for but we knew we had to carry out groceries. After making sure we only took what we needed. The Sadhu wanted to as well and we were happy too, the more the merrier.
Keeping Hemkund Saheb for future, we simply packed our needs, leaving the rest of luggage at the Gurudwara itself before starting towards Khagbasundi which is supposed to be a lake where crows came to commit suicide. I hadn't even looked up online for the place even once. After reaching Bhunyar we asked for directions when the hotel owner started asking questions about where is your guide and where is the porter. The Sadhu reached at last and before he came near the hotel I went up to say, they were asking about the guide so we've said that he knew the way. All we knew was a group had gone ahead so if we could keep our pace we would join them the next day. After walking about 3 kilometers we had to get down a recently made ladder, having no idea of the route or maps Ramesh said we had to trek beside a river all the way up to its base. After getting down the ladder we started hiking up the water stream, it was simply a wild hike and we had to find a way to climb higher. But after climbing for about 2 kilometers with all our strength Ramesh says it didn't look like the way in the video and none of the networks worked. That's when I checked the maps on maps me, a downloaded GPS application to realise we had climbed up the wrong stream. To get back we had no clue where the path would connect from, we decided to reach the river beside which we had to trek but we had to pass through a jungle without a path, keeping a direction towards the river. The moment suddenly changed from a tired adventure to a threatening treat for each one of us, as I moved ahead trying to walk through the lush bushes barefoot, managing to battle the Himalayan Nettle, locally known as bichu gass. After tumbling upon the rocks a couple times and falling once luckily I was safe. As we reached half way towards the location I had on the phone, it was past 5 in the evening when the sun starts to come down, suddenly everyone started having different thoughts, giving their opinions but I kept pushing myself into the bushes towards the direction I wanted to reach. Finally we could hear the river's roar giving us some assurance of finding our track but the last bit was filled with the Nettle plants making me and the Sadhu cry out in pain before we glided down to the riverbanks. It gave us all some comfort that we were safe but Dinakar was upset that he lost his beedi and ganja along with the chillum. We camped as soon as we reached while the Sadhu started the fire while Dinakar helped in finding wood. Later Ramesh cut the vegetables and Sadhu prepared some khichdi, the quantity was a little excess for it couldn't be cooked at once, taking a little extra time before dinner was ready. We all ate and crashed in the tent trying to fit ourselves with our luggage for the night's rest.
We woke up early next day and started packing up for the journey ahead while the Sadhu had different plans. All four of us started the hike ahead but slowly the Sadhu faded, we reached a dead end and then found a recently made ladder showing signs of someone having to make it to get across. We had to walk back a little at the ladder when we realized the Sadhu was gone. Nothing would stop the three of us unless it was impossible to move ahead so we continued trying to find a way with the footprints of the group ahead. After coming ahead for another kilometer was another end where another ladder was made, this was a little delicate crossing which me and Dinakar crossed on both hands and limbs while Ramesh managed to walk through. We moved ahead a few more kilometers to find a lush bush with plants as tall as us and so thankful to the group that was ahead that our route was simply paved. As we started moving through the bushes we saw a shelter far away which filled us all with some hope. One by one we followed to the end of the bushes. As it opened up to the shelter, it not just gave us the joy of catching up with the group but were also welcomed with a wild plantation of cannabis, all in full blossom ready to be rubbed for some Himalayan charas. The moment was full of emotions as I folded my hands to the man who welcomed us with a smile and a joint in hand, Akash Bhai. As we explained our situation he was humble enough to agree for us to join along, it didn't take much time for me and Dinakar to start rubbing our hands between the cannabis plantation while there was a friend of Akash, Krishna was also busy in the process of rubbing for charas. Akash called us that another joint was ready and we gathered to smoke another joint before coming back to making some more charas. When we had enough for the journey we continued to carry our backpacks to catch up with the rest of the group. There was no count on how many kilometers passed or what time it was as we kept moving, all we knew was to rest a few minutes when we ran out of breath. Both Akash and Krishna climbed as if it was a plain road while all three of us were pushing to our best. We saw more people at a distance upon reaching we met the porters of the expedition, a group of Nepalese people who carried everything from food and shelter along with the luggage of the tourists.
Suddenly a man arrives, about 6 feet tall, fair complexion with a salt and pepper hair and beard, fit, smart and conscious. He questions Akshay who we were, as Akash explained he looked at us to ask who gave us the permission to climb and who would be responsible if anything happened to us? Ramesh and Dinakar were yet to reach so I could simply look down before him, afraid if we would be sent back. I looked at Akash, he smiled with hope and that was enough. Fortunately the tourists they led were aged above 40, slowing down the pace of all guides and porters, turned out to be all lucky for us. After a rest for about 20 minutes we pushed ahead to catch up with the rest of the team. We reached an open grasslands, where the shepherd's camped providing temporary shelter to anyone who passed. Ramesh was so hungry that we went near the water to make some maggi while me and Dinakar rolled a joint with Bhej Dai one of the 5 porters who smoked up.
The guide was back, he came straight up, shook his hands to say “ Ishwar Chauhan, me is expedition ka guide hoon. I'm sorry me gussa me tah aur usko aapme uthara, yathri ko bhuk laga hai aur dai log pahuncha nahi. Aap sab edar Tak a Gaya toh hamare sath hi chalo “ it was just another incident of God taking on the human body. That moment had everything, personality, trust, hope, and confidence. For sure that man was made differently. He guided the porters to camp ahead and asked us to help out if possible. I agreed. Upon reaching the campsite all porters went for different jobs, one for water, one for firewood, one opened up the loads while another couple pitched the tents. I found a place and asked if we could camp there, The guide agreed. Once the tent was ready I followed the Dai who gathered firewood. Ramesh comes to say that we camped far from the group, I explained how dependent we were on them, not to forget that we wouldn't have reached the place without their help. After a tough discussion he had to agree and I knew we had no other choice. The yathris however were more than happy to find us there that they shared us with their own comfort of food and snacks. Conversations started with all of us introducing each other as Ishwar Bhai made dinner before the day winded.
It was a little past 4 in the morning when the tourists woke up and started asking for hot water and fire. After about an hour, I heard a voice, Akarshan Thoda chole masala mana denge? I replied, theek hai Sir. It was early in the morning with the cold not letting us out of the tents, after washing myself with some ice cold water I started to prepare for masala while the porters kept chana to boil. As the sun rose, everyone got out of their tents, getting ready for another day of adventure. Initially the trek continued beside the river, soon the path started to vanish with the rains washing away the ancient route. It was a complete boulder zone on the edge of the mountain with one having to balance much towards the mountain or it was a deep drop on the other side. It wasn't a hard task for us but for the tourists, considering their age and physical health it soon started to become a challenge and for us it was a bigger challenge to help them pass. Akash and krishna were so fed up with them that they paved their short cuts trying their best to stay away. After an endless struggle we reached Matchi Taal, a little above we set our camps and started preparing for dinner. The temperature was too cold that most of them stayed put in their tents. Ishwar Bhai and the porters put up a makeshift kitchen while I tried to help in cutting vegetables.
The journey starts the following day with a plan to reach Kagbhusandi and return back to Matchi Taal before dark. The path disappeared very soon leaving us with a direction to climb through the boulders. It was Ishwar Bhai alone trying his best to keep the tourists to a pace while each had their own speed leaving him helpless. Sunil and Sushil ji managed to keep a pace with Ramesh or Ishwar Bhai who lead ahead while Ravi and Chetan were struggling to move. Ravi Ji had to hang on his walking stick for every 30 steps while Chetan had no trust on himself. After a point Ishwar Bhai looks at me, asking me to hold Chetan’s hand to pull him faster, which actually helped. With me holding his hand and guiding him through the boulders he tried to keep a pace and trust to keep us both safe and moving. Ravi Ji had no hope neither we did on him, no matter how much we tried to keep him moving, he simply rested every 30 steps, however he did not stop himself from offering prayers at those numerous streams that we passed. It was about 12 when we passed the boulders and it was another hour of wall in the path to reach our destination. The tough path was now completed as we rested at the highest point of the journey sitting at 4680 metres. The place was so hidden and high that I finally got to see flowers like femkamal and Brahma kamal in abundance which even the locals say is to be found in the higher Himalayas. A little ahead some found a network on their iphones that they got busy making calls to close ones.
That view was worth every step of our struggle, a grand Lake showing off her purity hidden away from civilization. The feeling turned out to be so emotional for most, including me. It could be the rough journey in the past or was it that it took so many years for one to reach that place, it filled us all with a priceless emotion and a feeling of satisfaction. We hiked down to find a small temple with an idol of Ram, Sita and Laxman beside the grand Lake showing off her beautiful attire. Just as I reached Sunil Ji says go take a dip, I stood stunned for a moment but he refused to stop persuading me until I got into the water. I tried to manage saying I didn't have any spare clothes then he asked me to wear his nephew's wet boxers and change into what I wore. I took some time to accept myself taking a bath in such extreme cold, I finally made my mind. I was already freezing as I changed into the wet boxers, having no choice but a will for challenge I simply dived into the grand Lake. For that moment everything went blank, within a minute I swam back and rushed to change myself into dry clothes. I felt as if my body was confused how to react at that moment and to be warm enough, the place itself was very cold. They performed their rituals one by one while it was time to set our return journey too, I clicked some pictures for Ramesh while he clicked one for me in Sirsasana. The place felt so pure that to leave I really wanted to stay longer, considering how remote the place was and how unpredictable the weather is, we had to start walking in the direction that brought us. No matter how much we pushed all tourists that they failed to keep a pace and rested more time than moving. Ishwar Bhai started to worry as the sun shaded as it would become a challenge to reach the campsite after dark. Within no time the sun sets and the journey starts to become a struggle with each one of us and porters tagging up with a tourist in helping them to move ahead. Except for the torch light we had no clue of the path but just had a direction to reach. The experience is still unexplainable for how we moved a few kilometres. Finally we reached the direction we kept towards but were unable to find any lights. Each one of the tourists had their opinions, while some even started to blame the guide. Ishwar Bhai really had to go through enough that day with a group like this on such a tough adventure. He made us stay and went ahead to find the way and in not time he shows us the direction with his torch. We keep we were close by but when we couldn't find any lights there was some panic. Soon we reached, while they settled in their tents, all the porters gathered with Ishwar Bhai to make some dinner. With all the struggle and tantrums they gave he kept his calm and did what he did best. First he made some khichdi and served the guests, later he prepared rice and dhal for us all. Ramesh was starting to fall sick and was tucked in his sleeping bag, I called him for dinner while we all ate and rested for the night. Having such a tough day, Ishwar Bhai said the journey ahead is fine so we will start at 8 AM.
As expected, the alarm rang from the guests at 5 AM, Dai Uto, Aag lagao, Garam pani chahiye. Their loud screams for comfort woke up everyone gradually. Some parathas were made for all before we started moving after everything was packed. Though the journey down is fast, we had the boulder zone we had to cross and to get Ravi and Chetan across it was a risk for themselves and I was literally dragging Chetan on the way so it could be dangerous for both. Not bothering who went ahead or who stayed back, I held his hand and guided each step as we managed to pass the risky area. The river that we had crossed with struggle was now calm enough to pass easily. That evening we were back at kalgot village, with us came along a goat who followed us from the where the shepherds camped. As the porters unloaded the luggage, Ishwar Bhai decided to take back the goat so I tagged along as he pulled the goat towards the owner. Everyone felt so tired but for both my brother and me, we could still do another day's distance. We had that energy. Before we could reach the shepherd's camp, the shepherd himself was walking towards us in search of the goat. We handed it over to the owner before starting back to the campsite. It was the last day on camp and we were running short of some groceries but fortunately the stock me and Ramesh had bought was never opened and was used to make dinner. The group that showed so less interest in climbing were coming down full of joy, trying to cover more distance at ease except for Ravi Ji who stayed at his own pace throughout the 6 day expedition, he had a surgery done on a leg making it impossible for him to go fast and neither did he push himself no matter what happened.
It was the last day and as usual all were woken up by the demands of guests for hot water and fire. There wasn't much of a struggle except for two river crossings, made of temporary ladders. We kept our pace and kept moving, all managed to cross the ladders safely and then on the journey was just a hike down. It was me and Dinakar who stayed with Ravi Ji as everyone moved fast to grab something delicious to eat but for what the whole group had offered us, we just couldn't leave anyone behind. Finally as we reached, the group of guests sat at a hotel and ordered items while I couldn't find Ishwar Bhai and the team. As I wandered, I saw Ramesh who was calling us towards where they sat. A wonderful journey came to an end leaving tears of joy in many of us, simply the most beautiful journey of my life, as I reached Ishwar Bhai, I simply hugged him as I was really unable to express my gratitude and a heartful of emotions for what he had done and most importantly the way he did it. He asked what I wanted, I said tea and parle g, of course I was desperate for it. We sat among all the porters, I paid my respect and took their blessings by touching the feet of each one of them, so did the guests. They offered their gratitude by trying on the feet of everyone, including us before they left for home. We stayed there for some time when Roopesh a friend of Ishwar Bhai, came and talked about a cycle ride to mana pass. Ishwar Bhai said he'd try to get us on the list if possible. Akash and Krishna reached too, and it turns out Akash was the son of a big businessman who owned a few properties in Ghangaria.
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