A Traveler's Memoir

I rode along the border of Bhutan and reached the town called Phuentsholing which was the entry point to the country. The office that was supposed to issue my permit was closed, so I decided to spend a night there. India was just a 5-minute walk away but I decided to stay at the border town itself. Found a room at 500Rs. A room on the 5th floor, neat and clean with a TV and a fan. Dropped my luggage and went out to grab some food. A piece of chicken leg cost Rs. 100 and that wouldn't fill me. So I went around to find a smaller shop where a plate of momos was 40 and chowmein was 60. Ordered both, ate and grabbing a beer on the way, I went back to my room.  On reaching the immigration office, I found out that they didn't issue a permit without prior hotel booking and to ride in Bhutan I had to take an escort along paying him Rs. 2500 a day and take care of his needs as well. For once I thought of dropping the idea and going towards the North of India. But then I really wanted to...

Manas had made arrangements for my stay at his friend, Joy Joseph’s room. Joy was a Gujarati man in his forties, lived most of his life in the United States, continued to live there without a visa, even after their rules changed. He married someone whom he had dated for years, got separated and dated a new lady. When he got deported they froze all his funds and left him empty-handed at the age of 40. His struggle to make himself a life in India looked frustrating. A lovely human being, an old monk man, thoughtful and full of life and experiences. He was trying his best to take things easy. His mother lived in Gujarat and he was working with Manas's brother in Guwahati. I stayed there for more than 2 weeks and I didn't feel uncomfortable even once. He used to leave in the morning without breakfast and come back to first make a drink for himself. We just drank, smoked, and cooked. I got my much-needed rest before riding ahead. In fact, I had stayed there as I was waiting for my v...

From Agartala, I moved up to Meghalaya and reached Shillong, riding in the mist-covered roads with a light drizzle of rain. The LED light from Aizawl was doing its best. I first reached the Bara bazaar market, the right place to find good weed in Shillong and tried looking for it in the night but with the people's reactions, I felt it was better to drop the idea. The nearby lodge had a room at 500, which wasn't even cleaned after the previous guests checked out. Blankets and used plates were lying around just as they had left. I had no other choice because it was a crowded city and nothing was available on a smaller budget.  As I packed up and started to the living root bridge, I saw a man rolling in the market area of the street. Assuming it was weed, I stopped and asked him. He said it was tobacco, and I asked if I could find weed somewhere and he hooked me up with a porter. He asks me " how much?" I said 200. He took me around the corner and asked me to wait.  I ha...

I was up and set to leave at 8:00 AM. I didn't feel like eating anything so I started riding towards Reiek. As I rode through the winding roads, three bikes passed me. One deo with a GoPro facing backwards followed by a duke and a Dominor. I simply twisted my wrist, throttling up and started riding along. Without trying to overtake I stayed right behind them bending through each curve. We stopped at a place ahead and turned out even they planned on camping at Reiek. I asked if I could tag along and they said yes. We rode to the parking area when one of them said there was an off-road to reach the top and we hit it up. The path was so slippery that they all left their bikes halfway. I was already ahead so I continued. The path only got worse with me pushing, pulling and falling again and again. I was done at one point. The bike simply skidded and came down rather than going up. I even crashed hard and broke the right side mirror. Luckily the brake york was intact or I would have los...

Before reaching Imphal, I sent a few  Couchsurfing requests for accommodation. As I reached, I found a Bajaj showroom and I went in to check for the oil measuring cap. The people there were so unpleasant, they said the store was closed and they were helpless. It was just 4:30 PM and when I tried to explain, no one cared since it was a Platina. I came out disappointed when I received a message from Sunil saying he could host me. I called him and he shared his location and guided me to his place, a village about 20 kilometres away. On reaching his place I met his father at the entrance who welcomed me in. I met Sunil, he looked charming and showed me the room to sleep in. He had left his room for my use and moved to his brother's room. They served me dinner with fish and we slept.  I relaxed the next day as it was a Saturday while Sunil had work. He said he would join me tomorrow to do some sightseeing. I went around the place, took a few pictures and rode to the city around noo...

While riding to Nagaland through Silonijan, my engine oil measuring cap burst suddenly while climbing a road uphill, causing oil to leak. I managed to reach a Bajaj showroom in Barpathar after 30 kilometres, fixed it and changed the engine oil. The technicians were so amazed at the Platina, that they honoured me with another Gamcha.  The day went fast with that minor hiccup but I couldn't find a spot to pitch my tent. As it got darker I found a place to camp in a small neighbourhood. When I requested Ajay Boro, he agreed to let me camp. I put my tent and sat for a conversation with the families there. Brother Ajay asked me about my habits and I said I smoked up. He took me just around the house and for 50 rupees they gave me about a hell lot. I was dumbfounded! I said I didn't want so much. They said that’s how much they gave for 50. I smoked with an old man in his pipe and took Ajay da to buy some liquor since he didn't smoke.  This man Ajay Boro had a beautiful life but k...